The Churchill & Turen, Ltd. Travel Report
Worldwide Insider Recommendations

Volume I - Issue # 2
Recommendations • Evaluations • Opinions
Prepared Exclusively for Churchill & Turen Ltd. Clients and Subscribers

AIRFARES – Able to fly on short notice? Insiders are turning to www.smarter-living.com for some of the best deals on the web. The trick is to try to hit this site on Wednesday when most of the best deals for the coming weekend are posted. Both local domestic and international flights on major carriers are listed but you will probably have to contact the airline to book. Be very cautious, however, about the restrictions. They are odorous.

BAHAMAS - We are not fans of the newly enlarged Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island. The cruise ship passengers touring the facilities and the package tour guests contribute toward an atmosphere of a contrived tourism fishbowl. But just down the road, is the Ocean Club, with just 58 rooms, villas, and suites, in a sculptured 35-acre setting, and that is, indeed, a different kettle of fish. The Ocean Club was once owned by the Lynch in Merrill Lynch. The current owner, Sol Kerzner, the CEO of Sun International has turned the neighboring Atlantis into literally the largest island resort and casino in the world. Byt mercilessly, Kerzner has maintained the charm of the Ocean Club, complete with authentic 12th century French cloister and formal Versailles Gardens. This is where the upper crust goes for a short beach get-a-way.

BALI - Despite riots in Jakarta, Bali has remained an oasis of calm. True, the area of tourist concentration wins our award as "the most lovely place on earth to be destroyed by tourist hordes", but the happy irony is that escaping the downtown beach area and heading for the highlands, one can easily capture the romance of this intriguing destination. We like the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa for unexcelled comfort. Ask the excellent Concierge staff here what they recommend to island "Insiders" and you will be referred to the Café Roma for dinner. You have to charter a small boat called a "bemo" to get there, and it is proper to buy the boatman dinner. The Café sits under the twinkling moonlight of Jimbaran Beach. Pick out lobster, prawn, squid, crabs, etc. and watch them grill on coconut coals. Some romantics time this outing with a full moon for maximum impact. . . . . . .For an excellent tour to the interior of the island, consider a trek up Gunung Batur in the central mountains. This is a dormant volcano that stretches into the clouds, the home, it is believed, to departed Balinese spirits. Overnight and, in the morning, your guide will cook you a fine omelet using one of the hot volcano holes spread along the landscape. . . . . . . .For Batik fabrics and beautiful surfboards (a great gift for teens), shop the Kuta Legian area. Insiders go in the late afternoon, just before closing, to get the best deals. Bargaining is definitely required. . . . . . . . . . Recommendations for dinner include the Café Warisan Legian, a Mediterranean villa filled with antiques that also has a kitchen filled with a French chef. Poco Loco is a "hot" Mexican restaurant in Legian where a young boy walks around smiling at guests who are anxious to take his picture. But he carries a tray of tequila shots and if you want a photo - you have to buy a shot.

BEIJING - Returning visitors from Beijing are complaining about unexpected amounts of air pollution. The bottom line is that serious amounts of sulfur dioxide and carbon monoxide form grey clouds during the peak pollution months of November to February. Travelers who would like to tour the city and breathe at the same time, are advised to travel between May and September.

CRUISE LINE RATINGS

In this issue, we update our ratings of selected cruise lines. Ours is a 100 point-system featuring five ratings categories each with a maximum score of 20 points. Consider a score of 19-20 "as good as it gets" and 0-7 "a problem that needs immediate fixing". Our scores and recommendations are based on a combination of weighted factors which include industry reports/personal inspection reports/evaluations by literally thousands of Churchill & Turen cruise clients/and the better-known published sources. By using a 100 point system and including the largest number of possible sources and personal inspection criteria, we believe that our ratings are the most accurate currently available. But caveat emptor - any rating is subjective and we are just a bit harder to please than most.

CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE

The wealthiest, largest, powerhouse in the industry. But many of your fellow passengers are going to be relatively unsophisticated based on the line's price-oriented "fun ship" themes. The tattoo quotient can be high. Carnival has exciting, high density ships that cut many corners and offer some of the world's worst itineraries. But it is true that the conga lines start forming even before the ship has set sail. If you've chosen Carnival for your first cruise, or if you're young or unusually unpretentious, you will probably love your Carnival experience. But quality seekers beware. You do get what you pay for when it comes to ships and the crew that work the ships.

CELEBRITY CRUISES

Developed by Greek shipowners in 1990 from the old Chandris Line and purchased by Royal Caribbean in 1997, Celebrity occupies a now solid niche at the upper end of the premium cruise market. The Greek officers and highly trained crew offer superior service, although service in other areas of the ship seldom matches that found in the dining room. The entertainment has recently been upgraded, a deficiency we noted in our last report. The Mercury and the Galaxy are, in our view, the two most beautiful mass-market ships currently afloat. Food, under the distant direction of London-based French chef Michael Roux has proved to be a phenomenal success, eliciting oohs and ahhhs from delighted passengers. Catering by the Apollo Corporation results in better than expected cuts of meat, fish, fresh vegetables etc. Celebrity scores highest among the Premium lines on our "Recognition Walk" test. We feel that this test, which measures staff acknowledgements throughout the ship, from staff who obviously will not be tipped, is one of the better measures of crew training. We like the smaller sized Zenith and Horizon and maintenance of these vessels is top-rate. Royal Caribbean is expected to slowly raise prices aboard the Celebrity fleet - until they do, the line represents the best value among premium ships. The downside has to do with a lack of cohesion, several cornball cruise directors, and the feeling that a Celebrity ship is more a foreign country than a comfortable place for Americans to vacation.. European cruises and Caribbean cruises are sprinkled with guests off of charter flights from Germany and France, Some Royal Caribbean influences are evident - and that does not bode well for the long term. Still, this is a wonderful overall cruise product, particularly for those who like their ships luxurious and a bit hands-offish.

PRINCESS CRUISES

The "most improved" of the premium mainstream cruise lines, Princess just seems to be making all of the right decisions. Now the 3rd largest brand in the industry, Princess ships cover virtually every defined cruise area on earth. Although the crew, like so many others, is no longer Italian, Princess has maintained its corps of British officers who lend an air of dignity to what often appears to be a more upscale product than it is. Princess has always had lower density ships than most of its competitors. The line's frantic shipbuilding program is balcony-heavy, most outside cabins have them. The Grand Class ships have been an instant success and the industry now believes that Princess manages large numbers of guests better than anyone. From pre-registration to delivery of shore excursion tickets to guests staterooms, Princess is clearly trying to make the cruise experience more user friendly. Other lines now have entertainment that is as good - but Princess has more choices than any of its competitors. The line has tried, we think quite successfully, to be the Burger King of the industry. "Have it your way" might just be the Princess bywords. Nowhere is this more evident than the alternative dining options. Guests can now enjoy the comparative luxury of Princess without even bringing a tie on-board - if they so choose. Children's programs now equal the industry's best. For those seeking the best available mainstream cruise experience, the safest choice is clearly Princess.

RADISSON SEVEN SEAS

The relatively low hardware score reflects the line's eclectic mix of new multi-amenity luxury vessels and the older "built for the incentive market" Radisson Diamond and Song of Flower. But make no mistake, this is the finest cruise product for the money bar none, a stellar execution of a concept that provides an ultra-luxury series of standards at a price often 30% below that of competitors in the narrow field of the world's best cruise lines. The one week Paul Gauguin cruises in Tahiti show what can happen in the world's most romantic destination when you have a ship to match it. The Song of Flower still represents the best upper end value in European Cruising.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL

The 2nd largest cruise line in the world is not getting better. It is getting bigger, with new ships like the Voyager, the world's largest, featuring an indoor skating rink and rock climbing wall. Indifferent on-board service is a growing problem. Line's cabins are smaller that other premium-priced lines with whom RCI competes. Ships entertainment ranks as some of industry's best and RCI ships have the most comfortable, all-American feel of any of the majors. Excellent children's programs. We feel that RCI has become a bloated, somewhat indifferent company, the cruise line that treats its passengers more like a number than any of its major competitors. Air scheduling, for example, is clearly selected based on price rather than passenger convenience. RCI should have its own category just below premium lines such as Celebrity, Princess, and Holland America, but significantly above truly mainstream lines such as Norwegian Cruise Line and Carnival. Despite its occasional shortcomings, Royal Caribbean remains an excellent choice for those who prefer bells, whistles, lots of glitz, and a cruise line that is fully capable of pleasing every member of the family.

(Look for additional Cruise Line Ratings in the next issue of The Travel Report!)

ESOTERICA – Like to order authentic chef's clothing with a modern flair? Call for the Chefwear Catalog (800-568-2433). . . . . . . . . .They call him the "Potato King" on the basis of his aesthetic skills creating dishes with the vegetable, but Joachim Splichal has other claims to fame. His new "Patina Cookbook" takes readers inside his constantly "hot" LA restaurant with recipes and a behind-the-scenes look at a typical days work for the busy chef. If you want to see what all the excitement is about visit Patina for a sample of innovative European cooking techniques applied to California cuisine. If you want something more permanent, buy the book ($24 published by Collins) . . . . . . . . . . If you're thinking about renting a car and driving in the U.S. or Europe you may want to consult with www.speedtrap.com, a compendium of speed traps in cities and motorways that is kept current by frequent user updates. (Check out the sections on Lisle and Naperville, Illinois, cities with more than their share of "traps".

JERUSALEM – It's the King David that gets the Kings - but the equally luxurious Laromme Hotel has a far warmer staff. . . . . . . . . . . One of the better dining choices in the city is the profoundly misnamed Cow On The Roof located, of all places, in a basement at Sheraton Jerusalem Plaza. This place is rather gourmet, with exquisite lamb dishes and, despite the name, absolutely no dairy products. One wonders what the place would serve were it names The Bum Steer?

LONDON – Word is that the Dorchester is back at the top of its game and is, once again, the place to stay in London. The Spa is world class and the Cantonese Oriental Restaurant has earned a Micgelin star. And Michelin doesn't give out many stars to Cantonese restaurants. The Dorchester was opened in 1931 and little more than a decade later, Dwight Eisenhower set up Allied headquarters in the hotel. Churchill & Turen can secure access to the Dorchester's private membership club should you wish to enjoy dinner and dancing. . . . . . . . . . We love the 95-room Lanesborough, a classic yet surprisingly unstuffy masterpiece of a Hotel just across from Hyde Park Corner. It was once St. George's Hospital, in a less brocaded former life. Try to get corner room # 128, a fairly priced executive double that features a large sitting area along with a Jacuzzi, a steam shower, the wonderful views of Hyde Park. . . . . . . . .For fish and chips in the area around Portobello Road, Insider's head to Geale's. The Seashell in Lisson Grove is another haven for this dish - some say it's the best available in England. . . . . . . . .The young set intent on taking full advantage of London's notorious nightlife should head to The Limelight, located ina former church on Shaftsbury Avenue. Locals love the Ministry of Sound in Elephant Castle, where it is fashionable to arrive at 1:00 am. And stay for breakfast. . . . . . . . . . . Daytrips ought of London should include the accessible Cotswolds where we recommend visits to the villages of Burford and Bibury - both picture postcard perfect. Both York and Bath can easily be reached by train. . . . . . . . . Antique hounds will want to take in the Portobello Road Market on Fridays and Saturdays and the lesser-known Bermondsey Market on Fridays. . . . . . . Sloane Street and Beauchamp Place in the Knightsbridge section near Harrod's have become the centers of haut culture in the City. Nicole Farhi is a "hot" designer and every high society denizen would covet a trinket or two from the "hot" jeweller of the moment, Marina B. . . . . . . . . . Our previously recommended restaurant, the Pharmacy, has run into some legal difficulties regarding its name. Locals refer to it as the Achy Ramp or Army Chap. Le Gavroche is one the City's most romantic and expensive dining spots and Insiders are heading to Santini's for Northern Italian cuisine. . . . . . . . . For the first time in memory, London pubs will remain open for 36 straight hours during the Millennium celebration . . . . . . . . . . Fans of Andrew Lloyd Weber should know that the ultra-successful composer likes to dine at Sixty-Two Restaurant and Theater Bar on Southwark Bridge Road. Ever since Andrew has sung its praises, the place has been packed, but you should have little trouble securing a table at lunch. It's a small place with a continental menu but we recommend the roast rack of lamb. . . . . . Parents traveling with or without their teens to London are reminded that Lillywhite's has the best selection of British sports paraphernalia and Soccer Scene is the place to pick up authentic British and mainland Europe soccer shirts. It's a shame to visit London without grabbing some of these hard-to-find-in-the-states tops. . . . . . . . . . . For those with a day or two of extra time in London, a foray out of the city is suggested. If you would like a hassle-free, reasonably-priced bus tour out to Bath, Stonehenge, the Cotswolds, or Avebury simple call up The Green Line at 0181/668-7261. The price is less than $50 for these full day excursions or you can do Oxford as a half-day tour for less than $15. . . . . . . . . . 90 miles southwest of London in an area known as New Forest, lies one of our favorite country inns, Chewton Glen. Nestled on seventy acres, close to some of England's most beautiful villages, CG's 34 rooms are home to those who seeking the comfort of an upscale lodge with truly personalized service. This is the area where William the Conqueror went hunting and guests can still do that. But walk down to the sea and you will be offered a pair of warm socks and you'll be greeted by name when you return. Do take a sidetrip to explore the countryside in the company of Chewton's chief chauffeur, Boyston Bernard. He previously served as Prince Charles' chauffeur, so you'll be in steady hands. And oh the stories this man could tell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

NEW ORLEANS – Yes, the big name restaurants are often deserving of their star- status. But we love newcomer Gamay Bistro and Bar, run by hot chef Greg Sonnier. If you want to get into Sonnier's first restaurant, Gabrielle, you better call for reservations six or seven weeks in advance. But dial 504-299-8800 and you may get into Gamay with just a week or two advance notice. . . . . . The latest buzz has Nola's out-performing the better-known Emeril's. . . . . . . . . . Those seeking a quick run-down of the very best little meals in the city can use this "must do" list of local favorites. Try Parsol's or Mother's for the best Po' boys (we recommend the fried oyster version), The Acme Oyster Bar is the place to go for freshly shucked oysters, Eddie's has great, thick, stuffed pork chops, The Bon Ton Café is wonderful for all the Creole classics, and Mandina's is said to have the best bread pudding.

NEW YORK CITY – It is going to be the next great trend, upscale teashops located in affluent neighborhoods throughout America. To get a head start, try calling the Republic of Tea (800-354-5530). This young firm is dedicated to finding the absolutely best tea harvests from around-the-world. Many of their teas are actually hand blended. A few, are culled from just a single harvest. To taste before ordering by phone, stop in at Felissimo on W. 56th street, an elegant tearoom that may be a forerunner of things to come. Perhaps just a dream - but a return to civility must, we feel, be accompanied by a return to tea.

NICE – Give us a choice of Cannes, Nice, St. Tropez and Monaco, we're always going to go with Nice. There's a certain liveliness to the place that one doesn't find elsewhere and the hotel and restaurant scene is filled with wonderful options. For fine dining and a signature bouillabaisse, we recommend L'Ane Rouge on the Quai des Deux Emmanuel. This fish stew made with a base that includes olive oil, tomatoes, and saffron, hails from Marseilles. Traditionalists claim that a proper Bouillabaisse must be made from racasse, or devil fish. But we've seen versions that include conger eel and sea robin. In Nice, the local version is called Nicois bourride or white bouillabaisse. The name comes from the addition of cream, eggs, and butter. . . . . . . . .

PARIS – If you find yourself with time on your hands in the eternal city head to Bleu comme Bleu, a chic, new day spa just off the Champs-Elysees at 47 ave. Hoche. You will be assigned a private cabine for treatments that include facials, haircuts, massages, and manicures. Many of the products come from the famed Carita Spa. Dial 33-1-53-81-85-53 for reservations. We found the prices to be reasonable given the pedigree. . . . . . . . . . We recently paid a surprise visit to the Hotel Verneuil, 8 Rue de Verneuil in the heavenly 7th arrondissement. The River Seine gently flows nearby, and if one is quiet, you can hear snippets of café conversation from the nearby St. Germain des Pres area. Now be forewarned that the twenty-five or so rooms are smallish. But with many doubles available for less than $200 this small gem that once housed salesmen visiting the Louvre when it was still a royal palace, is an excellent choice for those seeking precious accommodations . . . . . . . . . Paris is a city of rooftops. It is a city best enjoyed while looking up rather than looking down, although given the apparent shortage of pooper scoopers in the city, looking down every so often is not a bad idea. We far prefer the rooftop restaurants and bars of Paris to those on the street close to the fumes of a million Renaults. We were, therefore delighted to wander up to the roof terrace of the Hotel Raphael (17 Avenue Kleber) to have a drink in the newly opened facility. One has the sense of being esconsed in a garden with wonderful views. Recommended for romantics. A more unusual rooftop experience is dinner at Le Zeyrab, a fine restaurant featuring recipes from Tunesia and Morocco. What really makes this place special is the fact that it sits on top of the beautiful Arabic Cultural Institute at 3 rue des Fosses-St.-Bernard. . . . . . . . . . . . If you haven't been to Paris within the past three years, you may be somewhat surprised at the number of truly chic salons that dot the former student quarters on the Left Bank. The 6th arrondissement has become the center of French chic with shops from Sonia Rykiel and Prada. Locals are not happy about the transformation of Le Drugstore on Boulevard Saint-Germain to a glitzy Armani store, but overall, we think it an improvement. Further down the street is the new Versace outlet. . . . . . . . . . . Picking fine restaurants in Paris is still easy. But just for the record, as of this moment, these are the restaurants that we promise will provide a memorable experience: L'Ambroisie, Pierre Gagnaire, Le Grand Vefour, Laurent, and the better known Guy Savoy and, of course, 3-Michelin star Alain Ducasse.

PORTUGAL - Those seeking a week of rest, golf, and, perhaps, some of the world's best seafood, all at reasonable prices, might consider the Hotel Quinta do Lago on the Algrave along the southern coast of Portugal. This Orient-Express Hotel sits on 1600 acres of pine woods and features one of Europe's top ten golf courses. The estate area features several other golf courses for those seeking a variety of challenges. The resort has its own riding stables, swimming pools, and a beach on the Atlantic. Room rates begin at under $400 per night.

ROME – We have long recommended the ancient Trastevere district, along the right bank of the Tiber River, for its selection of atmospheric dining options. Now, the left bank of the river, the area known as Testaccio, is on its way to becoming Rome's "in-spot" . Insiders head to Conny's, a classy Italian version of an American Steakhouse. They even have fried green tomatoes on the menu. . . . . . . . . . The Hotel Hassler, just at the top of the Spanish Steps, has 100 rooms, some filled with frescoes, superb service, and a rather accommodating air. Rooms 403, 405, and 505 have the best views of the Steps, in that order.

SARDINIA – For those looking for something a little bit different in the way of a luxurious yet comfortable resort, we recommend Forte Village, in Santa Margherita di Pula on the island of Sardinia. Just 25 miles southwest of Cagliari along the southern coast, this resort features seven four and five-star hotels offering 714 luxurious rooms in a variety of settings. We recommend Villa del Parco, whose 25 rooms and 18 bungalows are aretreat for Italian film stars.

SORGES - How did this tiny village in southwestern France make our list of Insider recommendations? It is only home to the most prized delicacy on earth. Of the seventy or so varieties of truffles, the to-die-for underground fungus, two are revered by gourmets. The first is the white truffle which is found in Italy. But the very best is said to be the black Perigueux, found in Sorges but named after its larger village neighbor. A good beginning strategy would be to contact the English-speaking curator of the Musee de la Truffle by dialing 35-5-53-05-90-11. Tour the museum with its one employee and then stop by the Auberge de la Truffle restaurant and hotel. The rooms are quite spartan but that’s not the point. Order truffled scrambled eggs and you will discover gastronomic Nirvana.

STOCKHOLM – For those seeking a near perfect day in Stockholm, we suggest a brisk walk about Old Town followed by a patient, meandering visit to the Ostermalmshallen Food Market. Top it off with dinner prepared by one of the city's top chefs, such as Mathias Dahlgren a French-inspired genius who plies his trade at Bon Lloc 33 Bergsgatan. For something more akin to the kind of non-nouvelle food that Swedes eat on the weekend, try Erik's Bakficka at 4 Fredrikhovsgatan.

SIGNATURE TOUR COLLECTION

The cruises and tours that we personally escort

JUNE 1 - 10, 2000 - JOIN ANGELA AND RICHARD TUREN ON THEIR PRIVATE BARGE SAILING THE CANALS OF SOUTHERN BURGUNDY AND THE LOIRE Imagine - a night in Paris, followed by a six-night leisurely cruise through southern France with everything included, followed by another night in Paris. The total cost of this eight-night program is $2489 per person. Our barge, the Mirabelle, is a superbly appointed, Dutch-built barge launched in April, 1999. We've chartered the entire barge but we can only accommodate 12 fortunate couples. All cabins have en suite bathroom, all meals are included, a private coach accompanies the barge for excursions, and there are bicycles aboard. There is also a bartender and a cache of fine regional wines The Mirabelle is air conditioned.

JUNE 21 - 28, 2000- THE CRUISE TO ALASKA! - Announcing our first, ever, escorted cruise to Alaska during the Inaugural Season of Radisson Seven Seas new, 490-Passenger Navigator. The smallest cabin on this magnificent ship is over 300 square feet. Round-trip airfare is only $195 from Chicago and we've secured special rates for our group with cruise prices that begin at just under $3000 per person. If you've been waiting to see Alaska in proper style, on a ship with large suites, single seating dining, inclusive fine wines served at meals, and a "no gratuities" policy, then we'd like to suggest that your ship has arrived. An optional 5-night pre-cruise land package including Fairbanks, Anchorage, and Denali is also available.

SEPTEMBER 27 - OCTOBER 8, 2000 - OUR 11-DAY CULINARY/LIFESTYLE TOUR TO THE HILL TOWNS OF TUSCANY - FLORENCE - AND THE ITALIAN LAKE DISTRICT - One more opportunity to join our all-time best-selling tour to Italy featuring exclusive Churchill & Turen events. We will visit restaurants for in-kitchen demonstrations and have a village in the hills of Tuscany create a special meal - just for us. This is not a trip for history buffs - it is a trip for those who want to know what life in Italy is like today. Space is limited and non-cooking spouses will, we promise, find this a truly memorable journey. We only change hotels twice, staying in unique settings. The total tour price is $3233 including several special meals and river view rooms in Florence and the Italian Lake District. Professionally escorted by Paola Meoni, accompanied by Angela and Richard Turen.